Kharkhorin: co-operatives in action: part two

After lunch at the Beh credit union, we visited another Kharkhorin co-operative, the Zuulun Suvd production co-op.  This is a small co-op -- only nine members -- but it has an enormous impact. Its primary objective is to provide a livelihood for elderly and disabled women, which it does through the production of felt slippers, hats, boots, souvenirs and other products.  The co-op has been very successful, and some of its products have been brought to Ulaanbaatar to be sold.  Another wonderful example of co-operatives in action.

A co-op member cards dyed wool, which will be used to make felt products

Mongolia's rugged terrain makes life difficult for people with mobility impairments, but this woman now has a viable livelihood because of the co-op.

Felt slippers are one of the co-op's specialties: needless to say, we went shopping!

--  Donna Balkan

Kharkhorin: co-operatives in action: part one

We left the ger camp at around 9 on Wednesday and headed for Kharkhorin, where we visited Beh Credit Union, where Gary Seveny and Trudy Rasmuson have been working as coaches. The credit union was established in 2002 with 10 members; as the manager, Dash, put it, "The economic situation here was very poor and we had no access to loans.  So we decided to improve our financial situation by ourselves and opened the credit union."

Dash, the manager of the Beh Credit Union, in the CU office

In front of the credit union: l to r: Ganbold (the CU's accountant), Trudy, Dash, Gary.  The word that can be seen on the blue sign is khorshoo, the Mongolian word for "co-operative".

Today, Beh has over 200 members and more than 100 members have already received loans from the CU.  They have used the money for everything from creating small businesses to home improvements to paying for their children's tuition. The credit union also organizes social activities for its members, and I was particularly pleased to hear that it encourages its members to buy products from other members, thus increasing member engagement in the CU.

More recently, the credit union has started a transportation service as a ancilliary business; and it won an award from local authorities for its contribution to agriculture in the area.  The prize was a tractor, and members can borrow it for their own agricultural activities.

When we asked Dash about the kind of people who join the credit union, he brings out a piece of paper listing all the members by age, gender and occupation, The membership is 51.3 per cent female and 48.7 per cent male, and 42 per cent are between the ages of 30 and 45.  Dash runs down the list of occupations: "One member of parliament, 35 from the soum (local) government, 20 own small businesses, 48 work for private businesses, 16 herders, 10 work in agriculture.....and so on, until he gets to "one student".   We talked about the impact of Gary and Trudy's coaching assignment, and Dash seemed pleased with their recommendations. "I am really glad that people in Canada came here and shared their experiences. It's really helpful for us."

-- Donna Balkan

Tuesday, August 16: "Camping"in the hotel

I’m almost getting used to the constant alarm sound coming from the elevator. For the second day, the hotel does not have electricity or running water. When the power does come back on, it’s only at 11pm at night. So we’re essentially camping out… in a nice hotel…

Today was our second day working with the Credit Union. We met some more of the ladies on the committees and discussed some more ideas for them – including the Canadian practice of giving back to the community.

After a big dinner at a local restaurant, the ladies of the management team had “some entertainment” planned for us…. And it came in the form of a private karaoke room at the back of the building! I’ve never seen so many women having so much fun! Karen and I were serenaded and entertained by both traditional and pop Mongolian songs… sung by the Board of Directors and other ladies from their Lending and Supervisory Committees! What a night! My cheeks still hurt from smiling.

- Ramune Jonusonis

My last day at BEH Credit Union

Morning came early, once again, but today has extra activity at the ger camp. Most of the "residents" are departing for other areas of Mongolia continuing their vacations and explorations. They come from all over the world but primarily Britain, Germany, France and one lone young lady from Washington state, USA.

They each have their own story as to why they chose Mongolia and none had pre-conceived notions of grandeur.

The young lady from Washington state is a fire fighter. She took a sabatical which started the beginning of April 2011 when she tried downhill skiing in Mongolia. She said the slopes were great but the snow conditions were poor most everywhere she went. They do not get as much snow as we in North American ski centers get, therefore the base is minimal and the wind sept snow is crusty to icey. Plus there are no ski lifts. Your manually trek to the top of the mountain and then ski down. Sounds like hard work.

She explained to me that since the snow melted she has been bicycling all over Mongolia and has felt safe on her own. She pitches her own tent each day and really enjoys the mix of solitude and times when she has companionship at ger camps.

Yesterday before she arrived at camp, she had been caught in a storm that started off as sleet and turned to snow followed by a down-pour. It turned the dirt road into a mud pool that lasted about 4 to 5 miles that she had to push her bike with her camping trailer through mud that was well above her ankles. Being a fire man fighting forest fires, she looked very strong and determined. The weather certainly did not prevent her from arriving at her chosen destination.

Stories like hers are repeated by other tourists which make the ger camp quite enjoyable.

Today I picked up the beautifully tailored dale ( a traditional full length garment of distinction) that I had made for my wife. The tailor had me acquire the silk at the market and next day it was ready. In Canadian dollar terms, the silk cost $30 and her tailoring was $20. Bargains like this are hard to believe especially when you see the quality of workmanship and attention to detail of very fine decorative stitching and patterns.

Trudy and I had prepared a presentation of recommendations to BEH Credit Union of where we saw their opportunities to improve and focus. These were primarily where the greatest value could be achieved for the credit union and its members. Dash, the Manager, made notes throughout the 2 hours that we presented. On concluding, he thanked us deeply saying that we had brought forward real options for them to make great strides. He liked everything we presented but also confessed that he personally had some resistance to overcome his "continue as before" comfort zone. We really appreciated this feedback because we have all been in the position that ideas are presented to us and we resist until the seed of that idea germinates and develops within us and wins us over. Dash pledged to try these options because he knew we were bringing him real world experiences and knowledge that was invaluable. I am bowled over by all the credit union people that we worked with because they badly want to attain the success that we have achieved in Canada.

Our team at Beh Credit Union: l to r: Gamboldt, Dash, Jig, Trudy

 As lunch time approached, Sarah Feldberg and Donna Balkan from Canadian Co-operative Association arrived for their own deliberations with the credit union and then with the felt producers co-op.

Mid afternoon we all toured the Erdene Zuu which is the 16th century Buddhist temple in Khara-Khorum. It is a huge temple of at least 25 acres within the temple walls. Our hired guide was eloquent with all the historical information as well as informing us of the proper observance of Buddhist ritual of circling some inner temples three times and our prayers and wishes would be granted.


Spinning the brass prayer drums three times was done by each of us as we travelled through the various temple buildings.

Many of the buildings were now museum type locations with religious artifacts and treasures that each held special meaning and significance. Concluding this visit proved tiring since it is so very large. But before we departed the temple, we visited a Buddhist ger where a wedding was underway and the family members were each receiving blessings. We observed the ceremony but made certain that we did not impinge on the privacy of the family. While we did not understand the words conveyed, we could see the happiness on the family members' faces and that of the bride and groom.

Arriving at the ger camp, Sarah and Donna and their translator were assigned a ger and I agreed to have their driver share my ger which had four beds in it.

That evening after dinner, Gamboldt and Dash showed up at the ger camp dining room with gifts, Airag and vodka. Plus a throat singer to entertain us. The evening was very pleasant and entertaining. the whole camp attended our celebrations and one fellow even entertained us with a few Beatles songs that he had perfected.

The Erdene Zuu monastery

It was the perfect ending to a perfect day in Mongolia.

-- Gary Seveny

Tuesday, August 16: A co-op in the "real Mongolia"

“Now you’re going to see the real Mongolia”, Sarah said to me as we left UB for the countryside.

Our destination was the Batkhani Uguj co-operative in Erdenesant soum, a co-op which was founded just three months ago and already has 90 members. Its home is an abandoned building that had been donated by the soum (municipal authority); the building was in very poor repair, and it was renovated with the help of Australian international development funding. The co-op as created to provide livelihooods for some of the unemployed women in the community, and to give herders an opportunity to have the products of their livestock processed and sold. Felt is one of the co-ops primary products, since it is used to cover gers (the tents that most herders live in) as well as slippers, bags, jewelry and other items. The co-op also does weaving, makes items out of horse and camel hair, and even sells such food products as kuuchuur (fried pancakes filled with mutton) and airag (fermented mare’s milk, a very popular drink in rural Mongolia). It also has a small store which sells basic goods and some vegetables.

In front of the co-op with members and special guests from the local government. Tsolmon, the co-op manager,  is standing between me and Sarah.

A local herder brings felt to the co-op to process

We were welcomed by Tsolmon, the co-op’s manager who explained that she, like many of the members, had been unemployed before starting the co-op. She gave us a tour of the co-op where we learned about the arts of feltmaking and weaving. Felt is a very important commodity in Mongolia, as it is used to cover gers, the traditional tents in which many Mongolians live . While we were walking around, a herder came in wearing a del, a traditional costume which is rarely seen in the city, but is quite common in the countryside. The herder brought in a new supply of felt for the co-op to turn into ger coverings, slippers and other products.

It was then time for lunch, and we quickly learned that Mongolians are probably the most hospitable people on earth. There were a few special guests, including Ms. Bumbuyan, the vice-governor of the Erdenesant soum, probably the equivalent of a Canadian deputy mayor.

Lunch at the co-op. The soum's deputy governor is seated, at centre

The table was laden with all the traditional delicacies I had read about before coming to Mongolia: a platter laid high with various dairy products such as cheeses and dried curds. Kushuur, which were delicious. Rice. And even some vegetables and fruits, which are not that common in rural Mongolia. It was obvious that we were honoured guests, and we enjoyed the meal immensely. There was salty Mongolian milk tea, and my first taste of airag, which actually was better than I had expected, although it was very rich and I could only drink a little.  After lunch, we all gathered in front of the co-op for photos, then headed off with the entire group to visit Altan, a herder who is a member of the co-op board. A visit to a herder’s ger is always a highlight of travelling in Mongolia, and I was looking forward to this new experience. But that’s another story...

-- Donna Balkan

Travelling in Mongolian Time

I’m really excited to leave as our work set the Credit Union up well, and although I really like my coaching partner and interpreter, we have spent way too much time in the same room. At 9 we would be off to our new location and then have a fun day to relax. That’s what the plan is supposed to be. At noon we are still in our room waiting. No call from the host picking us up and no sign of her. I’m not surprised. One wrong turn on the unmarked dirt roads and you could end up in Siberia. We decide to go for a last swim in the river and cool off. We get the call that the car got stuck in the mud and they would be collecting us after lunch. 

We finally get picked up and pack our stuff into a luxury Toyota SUV. Things are looking up... No hold on...No sooner do we leave the village than we have to turn back as our new host Narra has to purchase something at the store. Its now close to 4 and we are finally leaving. We drive like crazy in the dirt, avoiding potholes and multiple dirt paths. At one point our driver decides it’s time to get off the road and drive through a field of grass straight towards the mountains.

Now we are making our own road. It’s a lot smoother then the dirt road however we do have to drive through rivers and bogs. Not sure what we will do if we get stuck. I asked Narra how they managed to get out of the mud. She said they waited for a herder to come along on his motor bike to get a push by hand...however, Narra looks impeccably dressed and is wearing high-end glasses, matching purse and high-heeled shoes. She said she was covered in mud and had to stop and clean by the river and then dry her clothes. That’s why she was late. I guess that’s what we will do also. Just then, a clear plastic bag filled with cream falls on my lap. It’s breakfast, Narra says and then holds it on her lap for the rest of the trip. 

We come across some unusual stone carvings that stick straight out of the land. Narra explains that they are Deer Stones from the Ottoman Empire. Very cool ... you can barely make out the dear carvings.


The mountains are really just large hills with some larger rocks and at a high elevation. We get to our first destination... dinner at a herder’s summer home. Narra says as we arrive “There are many members here to greet us and hot pot is on the stove... You will be expected to make some speeches and possibly sing karaoke please enjoy.”


I was able to sit in the ger and get in a few formal toasts and make my introduction while my interpreter restated everything in Mongolian. I actually see the hot pot before it comes off the stove and they let me photograph the cooking and preparation. The stones help regulate the heat. Once cooked you take the stones out, let them cool briefly and then try to hold them... moving them from hand to hand before they burn through your skin. They are all greasy and slimy from the lamb fat. The hot fat and rocks make your hands super soft. It’s actually disinfecting as well as we are about to eat with our hands, no utensils.

After a delicious dinner (it was!) we start up a generator and turn on the computer and speakers and get the microphones going. People begin to pick the songs and I get myself out of it by being a so-called judge. Close call, not sure if I can avoid singing for the next week
.





The Mongolians are very persistent when it comes to telling your story through song. First up the young herder and his wife... he begins to sing and the cows all look up and begin to come towards the ger. It seems that a stampede is about to run through our camp any second. The cattle stop about 100 yards away and listen to the singing and appear to be enjoying the show.

-- Bruno Dragani

Bruno Dragani's last day in Binder Soum

The village is filled with excitement as today the credit union will be having its fifth anniversary celebration. Members have been entering a contest all year and they have been anticipating the big draw for some time. In fact, the credit union delayed the draw so that we could be the dignitaries to award the grand prizes: a fully loaded 150cc motorcycle and a satellite dish with all the goodies. They also have a series of cash prizes. Ken and I are asked to make speeches to encourage members to move savings deposits to the credit union and attract more memberships. The event is going to start at 3 pm sharp and it might last an hour. Then we are off to camp overnight and cook “hotpot”. As usual Mongolian time dictates the start of our event. So we are at the town hall at 3 only to find it empty with the prizes all set up on stage. The building starts to fill up at 4 and we get going at 4:30 or 5.

Many of the elders are dressed in traditional Mongolian clothing.

Speeches, a powerpoint presentation, and then our speeches. Both Ken and I present a gift from our respective credit unions to Nassa, the Chair and Executive Director. Neither Ken nor I talked about giving and yet we both brought something small from local artists to present so they could remember us. Interestingly, we both chose carvings of birds. His was a rock carving of an eagle and mine a wood carving of a humming bird. Both artists were Aboriginal people from our areas. After Ken and I are done our speeches, the draw begins and it goes on for at least 2 hours as they start with the equivalent of $1.00 Canadian and work their way up to the grand prizes. I get to pull the name for the winner of the satellite dish which happens to be one of the shop owners who is thrilled. Ken gets to pick the winner of the motor bike. He picks one of the elders who can barely walk or hear. Later he joins us for dinner and presents Ken with chocolates and vodka. He keeps thanking Ken and I’m sure if he could package him up and keep him as a luck charm, he would.

Winner of the motorcycle!

By the time we leave the hall it's beginning to rain and Nassa suggests not camping. Good thing as the bugs would have eaten us alive. We get back to our one room cell in which all three of have been sleeping, eating and working for the last 3 days and are told we will be collected at 8ish. Dinner would be ‘Hot Pot” in the kitchen/pub/nightclub/whatever you want it to be room next door. Hot pot is lamb shanks and other sheep parts with carrots, potatoes and large rocks all cooked on an open fire in a cast iron pot. I never got to see it made, but I am told that it’s a local favorite for Mongolians so it’s likely I will see it when we visit another area. They could use the help of Iron Chefs, as the presentation needs some work. Its heaped into a large mound of meat and fat with a few vegetables and then placed in plates for two to three people to eat from. Yikes... utensils aren’t necessary and I begin to dig in with my hands. Surprisingly it’s also my fav. It’s cooked perfectly and the meat falls off the bone. Probably the best lamb shank I have ever had. Here they call all the meat we are eating mutton, but I keep correcting my Mongolian friends that it must be lamb because it’s so tender and tasty. It also sounds better to me… I going to write in and get the next Hell’s Kitchen to be filmed from Binder Soum. It’s shocking that something so unappetizing can be so good to eat.

Hotpot with rocks!!

The dinner is basically a private function, but people keep coming in and looking at what’s going on. At about 10, I realize they want us to get out as the place needs to transition into a night club. By this time we have had so many toasts and words of kindness that a night club sounds good to me. We begin dancing and enjoying all the new people who join the party. That lasts until 1 pm and then off to the credit union to finish the night with rounds of Mongolian signing. They should really have a Mongolian’s Got talent show as they can all sing so confidently. This lasts until 2 am and our host sends us to bed. I can hear them still going well after I settle in to a good nights sleep. Nassa tells me the next day that they left at 4 am.

-- Bruno Dragani