My last day at BEH Credit Union

Morning came early, once again, but today has extra activity at the ger camp. Most of the "residents" are departing for other areas of Mongolia continuing their vacations and explorations. They come from all over the world but primarily Britain, Germany, France and one lone young lady from Washington state, USA.

They each have their own story as to why they chose Mongolia and none had pre-conceived notions of grandeur.

The young lady from Washington state is a fire fighter. She took a sabatical which started the beginning of April 2011 when she tried downhill skiing in Mongolia. She said the slopes were great but the snow conditions were poor most everywhere she went. They do not get as much snow as we in North American ski centers get, therefore the base is minimal and the wind sept snow is crusty to icey. Plus there are no ski lifts. Your manually trek to the top of the mountain and then ski down. Sounds like hard work.

She explained to me that since the snow melted she has been bicycling all over Mongolia and has felt safe on her own. She pitches her own tent each day and really enjoys the mix of solitude and times when she has companionship at ger camps.

Yesterday before she arrived at camp, she had been caught in a storm that started off as sleet and turned to snow followed by a down-pour. It turned the dirt road into a mud pool that lasted about 4 to 5 miles that she had to push her bike with her camping trailer through mud that was well above her ankles. Being a fire man fighting forest fires, she looked very strong and determined. The weather certainly did not prevent her from arriving at her chosen destination.

Stories like hers are repeated by other tourists which make the ger camp quite enjoyable.

Today I picked up the beautifully tailored dale ( a traditional full length garment of distinction) that I had made for my wife. The tailor had me acquire the silk at the market and next day it was ready. In Canadian dollar terms, the silk cost $30 and her tailoring was $20. Bargains like this are hard to believe especially when you see the quality of workmanship and attention to detail of very fine decorative stitching and patterns.

Trudy and I had prepared a presentation of recommendations to BEH Credit Union of where we saw their opportunities to improve and focus. These were primarily where the greatest value could be achieved for the credit union and its members. Dash, the Manager, made notes throughout the 2 hours that we presented. On concluding, he thanked us deeply saying that we had brought forward real options for them to make great strides. He liked everything we presented but also confessed that he personally had some resistance to overcome his "continue as before" comfort zone. We really appreciated this feedback because we have all been in the position that ideas are presented to us and we resist until the seed of that idea germinates and develops within us and wins us over. Dash pledged to try these options because he knew we were bringing him real world experiences and knowledge that was invaluable. I am bowled over by all the credit union people that we worked with because they badly want to attain the success that we have achieved in Canada.

Our team at Beh Credit Union: l to r: Gamboldt, Dash, Jig, Trudy

 As lunch time approached, Sarah Feldberg and Donna Balkan from Canadian Co-operative Association arrived for their own deliberations with the credit union and then with the felt producers co-op.

Mid afternoon we all toured the Erdene Zuu which is the 16th century Buddhist temple in Khara-Khorum. It is a huge temple of at least 25 acres within the temple walls. Our hired guide was eloquent with all the historical information as well as informing us of the proper observance of Buddhist ritual of circling some inner temples three times and our prayers and wishes would be granted.


Spinning the brass prayer drums three times was done by each of us as we travelled through the various temple buildings.

Many of the buildings were now museum type locations with religious artifacts and treasures that each held special meaning and significance. Concluding this visit proved tiring since it is so very large. But before we departed the temple, we visited a Buddhist ger where a wedding was underway and the family members were each receiving blessings. We observed the ceremony but made certain that we did not impinge on the privacy of the family. While we did not understand the words conveyed, we could see the happiness on the family members' faces and that of the bride and groom.

Arriving at the ger camp, Sarah and Donna and their translator were assigned a ger and I agreed to have their driver share my ger which had four beds in it.

That evening after dinner, Gamboldt and Dash showed up at the ger camp dining room with gifts, Airag and vodka. Plus a throat singer to entertain us. The evening was very pleasant and entertaining. the whole camp attended our celebrations and one fellow even entertained us with a few Beatles songs that he had perfected.

The Erdene Zuu monastery

It was the perfect ending to a perfect day in Mongolia.

-- Gary Seveny

First day at BEH SCU

It was a really cold night making sleep a little sporadic. The ger camp has tourists and travelers coming and going each day. It is a pleasure talking to them  about their vacations in Mongolia and where they are from.

Through the night, someone tried to get in my ger at about 4 am. I awoke and spoke that this was my ger and the person left without a word. My ger door doesn’t close properly and I tie a string around the  bolt and frame to keep the door shut. I had shown this problem to the owner last night and she will have her father fix the door today while I am out.

I was the first to get to the showers this morning at 6:30 am. The showers have a very small heater mounted on the wall that heats the water as it flows through to the shower head. Yesterday it did not work very well and I had a cold shower. Today it work marvelously and I had a hot shower. Actually too hot.  However, when the outside temperature is in the 45 F range, you take all the heat you can get to get the chill out of your bones. At about 9 am the temperature will rise to about 60 F and get better by mid day around 78 F.

Gambold was the most punctual Mongolian we met. He was always at least 10 minutes early. We spent the day from 10 am to 6 pm at the credit union actually doing the work we had planned and the staff were really anxious to cooperate with us.

At the end of the day, Dash took us to see a few sites and then we returned to our ger camp for dinner and an early night to bed.

-- Gary Seveny

A visit to the black market stalls

Today we commence our work at BEH credit union. `

We met Dash, the Manager, Gambold, the Accountant & Loans Officer and Solungut, the cashier. All the employees seem to be able to do each other’s job and answer most any question competently. As we gathered for our information meeting in the one room office of the credit union, several members came in and some joined our discussions particularly Board members and Committee members.

From a work perspective, the day was very rewarding as we accomplished much. It is clearly apparent that there are some “strange rules and ratios” that we do not comprehend the need or value for. Perhaps it is because they are new in their development of the credit union system and being very cautious. We will arrive at conclusions and recommendations over the next two days.

During our lunch break, Gambold took us to the black market where I bought several meters of silk at a great price. I took this to a seamstress who is making me a traditional dale to where at home. We visited several merchants and saw how they make their wares and the marketing they do.

At the end of the day, we visited a monument on the top of one of the mountains that overlooks the town. It is a tribute to Mongolian history of its empire over 1400 years from the sixth century to now. Three huge mosaic panels displayed maps of Asia and Europe showing the vast expanse achieved by Genghis Kahn as the most accomplished empire builder and another panel showed a lesser expanse with the third panel showing this century and how Mongolia shrank from greatness.

The sights from this mountain top were spectacular and there were several merchant selling their wares. Of course I am many tugriks lighter but the gifts will provide long lasting memories.

We returned to our ger camp for dinner and then a relaxing night.

-- Gary Seveny

Another day of Naadam

The morning was cold and crisp with rain still occurring on and off.

We all gathered in Atic’s ger for breakfast. Again a delicious meal that was far too heavy for our western appetites. It was another stick to the ribs meal that would carry us several hours.

After breakfast we packed up our luggage and headed for the Naadam day of horse races and wrestling in Orkon Falls.

This time, the credit union manager had his two horses in races and we drove our minibus at full speed beside the horse and rider for the entire race. His horse came in second. Again these races are run over a course that is 22 km long. It is simply amazing the stamina of these small horses. No wonder Genghis Khan conquered the world.

We watched other races from the finishing line and the credit union manager’s other horse came in first and was his crowning achievement for the day.

We all loaded up in the minivan and travelled to a nearby ger for lunch. The herder’s wife had cooked us Yak which was delicious. As custom would have it we shared several bowls of mare’s milk alcohol followed by a bottle of vodka. I think I am getting used to this or maybe I am developing a tolerance.

We returned to the Naadam site and watched several wrestling matches that allow people in the audience to pit themselves against the professional wrestlers. A couple of audience participants actually beat the pros even though they were sometimes mismatched by 100 pounds of weight and significant height differences. No one got hurt and all seemed to have fun.

I met several tourists from Switzerland, Netherlands, England, Norway and a fellow from Italy who played the saxophone for everyone. His music was upbeat blues and he played very well.

As the event was winding up and prizes were being bestowed, we waited for the credit union manager who was to travel back with us. He decided we should join his winner’s circle of friends to have more vodka. Afterwards, he advised us that he was getting a ride back in a better more powerful Land Cruiser so we all started departing for the same river crossing.

We got to the crossing first and noticed the water was at least one foot higher than normal due to all the rain and the current was very fast. We knew from the prior day's experience that the minibus would certainly get stuck mid river.

We waited for everyone to catch up to us at the crossing and watched many a brave soul stall halfway across including several motorbikes, cars, trucks and minivans. They actually were blockading each other from being able to cross.

Along came our friend in his Toyota Land Cruiser and he went to the middle of the river and towed out one vehicle after another. Then he came back for us and towed us from shore to shore and it was a good thing as the water came in above the floor boards.

By this time it was almost 9 pm and getting quite dark and we had several hours travel to get back to our hotel.

The rain had changed all the dirt roads into slippery treacherous mud trails. Several times we got stuck and had to get out to push. One time we stopped dead as the undercarriage of the minivan hit a rock sticking up from the trail. I thought for sure there was major damage but the driver was confident that all we had to do was push the vehicle off the rock and we would be on our way. It worked and we were underway again but it was worse than ever since it was pitch black and there were always four or five trails that we could take and it was too dark to know which was right. Shortly after midnight, we arrived at Bat-Ulzii and had only to cross one more river that was two feet deeper than the last time we crossed and the current now looked like rapids.

Our driver lifted the hood to the engine and loosened one of the manifolds for reasons I do not understand but is common practice when the water will be over the top of the engine. Next he lined up the minivan to take a solid run for the far side but at an angle that was going up river against the current. It was touch and go but we made it only to be confronted by town streets that have no drainage gutters so the entire streets are mud patches and holes that caused us to slide uncontrollably and to spin around more than once. It took us over half an hour to go about 3 blocks in this tiny town.

I was never so glad to get to the hotel. I was wet through and through and freezing cold. I put the heaviest dry clothes and socks on and went to bed and finally warming up a bit when the sun came up.

-- Gary Seveny

Awakening to the Dogs from Hell

I have gained a new appreciation for things we take for granted in the western world. For example, flush toilets. I do not mind outhouses if they have a seat to park my butt on. I have even experienced a circular hole in the floor for squatting. Here, outhouses all seem to be alike. The hole in the floor is significant and almost big enough for me to fall into. In essence, the floor is made of 12” wide planks and one is missing and the hole is about 4 feet long. Oh, BYOP (bring your own paper).

This morning I experienced a racket that I have never heard so loudly before. Barking dogs woke me at 5 am and it wasn’t just a few, it was a few dozen of the loudest most persistent non-stop barkers.

I wasn’t the only one who was awkened strangely, Jig (our interpreter) had a bird fly into her room at sunrise and it took some doing for her to get the bird back out the window.

Talking about western experiences, showers are something we take for granted. Here in these small towns (soums), there are only centralized showers in two block buildings that charge 1,500 Tugrik per shower. I was so happy to at least have the service I didn’t even mind that the water just drips from the shower head or that the hot water lasts only a short time. The shower is about 3 blocks from my hotel.

Breakfast is served in a café at the hotel but is cooked off-site at the owner’s house and driven in somewhere between 40 minutes to an hour later than agreed. I was served milk tea and soup with flour and meat. Actually, the tea is good but has no resemblance to the tea we drink. The soup dish was also quite good and as tradition has it, meat is the primary ingredient in everything Mongolia offers.

Today throughout this is Nadam. This is like a community holiday and festival. The town is celebrating with bareback horse races, archery contests and wrestling matches.

I observed 3 races at the finish line and all the riders are young boys from about age 9 to 13 and are bareback for these 18 to 22 km races. It was truly amazing that none of them fell off their horses. They make Genghis Khan proud.

I was really fortunate to be invited to ride along with one of the horse’s owners in the 4^th race. He is the owner of the hotel I stayed in and has a Toyota Land Cruiser which is the ideal vehicle for this rugged terrain. We were at the starting line drove along side his horse throughout the race which was really exciting. Unfortunately, his horse came in fifth.

After all the races were over I joined a circle of owners and drank mare’s milk alcohol (airag) and vodka until the bottle was empty. They know how to celebrate.

We were invited to a horse herder’s ger to have a celebration and dinner. The herder trains many horses for town people plus he has a herd of horses of his own that are all prize winners.

Just before dinner, I went into the fields where the mares were and watched the herder’s wife milk some of the mares. It looks much more difficult than milking a cow. She also needs a herder to hold the colt in front of the mare to keep her calm. The entire mare’s milk I tried had a particular taste that we believe is the result of the unique grasses they eat.

More and more, it became obvious that one of the most popular ways of getting around during the summer is on one of the Chinese made motorbikes that are 150cc and still have carburetion and drum brakes. Most of these are brand new and cost about $1,000. It is common to see three and sometimes four people on a motorbike including mothers with their babies.

-- Gary Seveny

Introduction to Mongolian credit unions

 Gary Seveny is the former CEO of Alterna Savings Credit Union. This is his first visit to Mongolia.

My days here start early 6 am and end late near midnight.

Breakfast was at our hotel and it was great. Although some of the food items were surprising from a western breakfast perspective. There were two types of salads to choose from and I did try both to experience the dietary range here. Also available were the usual breakfast fare of eggs, toast, coffee, selection of cheese and juices. The Mongolian diet has a heavy emphasis on meat and even breakfast offered a variety of sliced beef, sliced hams and sliced sausage.

I started my day meeting delegates from Mongolian Confederation of Credit Unions (MOCCU) and the cooperative organization responsible for training and consulting known as MCTIC. We were briefed by individual representatives that presented historical and current perspectives on the credit union system here in Mongolia. We also discussed the prospects of the future and the new Credit Union Act which has just received the first reading in their Parliament.

As a group of 10 coaches organized into 5 teams of two coaches we concentrated the rest of the morning reviewing our work assignments for the next two weeks; meeting our translator/interpretors; discussing how we will travel to our assigned credit unions in the various regions of Mongolia.

I am teamed up with Trudy Rasmuson, CEO,  Horizon Credit Union, who was a coach here in 2010 which is very helpful to me since this is my first year in Mongolia. Trudy and I thoroughly reviewed the plan for the next two weeks and are confident that we will provide value to the credit unions we will be working with.

MOCCU and MCTIC hosted our lunch at the Puma Imperial Hotel. I had a wonderful soup that had beef tongue as its meat and a creamy broth that was described as traditional. This was followed by a nicely roasted breast of duck.

In the afternoon we visited Trusco Credit Union which was one of Trudy's assigned CUs from last year. We were verifying the progress made from the prior year. We met with Bayaka the CEO and his two employees. It was rewarding to see that the credit union has prosperred well since last year.  In the last six months, the credit union has grown its assets a solid 20%!

We were also able to assist Bayaka with preparing his report to MOCCU which outlines the areas he was able to leverage the recommendations from the prior year visit by the coaches.

Bayaka invited us to dinner and we met up with two of our colleagues plus the staff of Arvin DEM Credit Union at the Godfather Restaurant. Yes, Italian food with a Mongolian influence. They were our gracious hosts for this dinner. They said they knew we would be enjoying more traditional Mongolian fare when we leave the Capital tomorrow morning. The food was excellent and the hosts were gracious.

It should be noted that it is common to have the Menus feature everything in Mongolian with an English translation.  Translations though, are often precisely accurate versus adopting the western terms. For example: Fried chicken chest vs breast; duck chest vs breast of duck; chicken fried leg vs fried chicken leg.  We find great humour with these translations even though they are technically correct.

It will be a long drive tomorrow, 430 kms, over mountainous terrain of paved and dirt roads. It has been suggested that we relax and enjoy what will likely be a 7 or 8 hour drive or longer. We will be arriving to Bat-Ulzii in Uvurkhangai province.

-- Gary Seveny