Helping to see

The Chinggis Khaan statue

There is a valley 210 kilometres east of UB, that leaving payment behind, winds about the same distance north. It is a wide expanse, bracketed by mountainous steppes. At the northern end along the Onon River lies Binder soum (soum is akin to a rural municipality) which is the soum center – and fabled home of the Great Emperor Chinggis Khaan.

An intensive day’s work at the soum’s credit union is behind us. After a refreshing swim in the Onon our good natured host and credit union leader Nasaa (his `short` name) is anxious to share the treasured history of his homeland.

Moving across the plain, we arrive at the first of two monuments we will visit. One of three bodies of water mentioned in the Secret History of the Mongols yet remains. Such is the deep history of this place. We are standing on the spot where 805 years ago (don’t get me started on the difference between a country and a civilization), a Mongol named Temujin was proclaimed Chinggis Khaan, uniting the Mongol tribes and forever changing the course of history across Asia and Europe.

A marker from an American archaeological expedition attests to the authenticity of the site. Most striking, is the inscribed stone monument that rises to dominate the small fenced compound - dedicated by the Mongolian people. At the moment it is an eerily quiet place, the sun readying to set.

Monument commemorating Chinggis Khaan's birthplace, with the valley and lake in the background

Distracted, I now notice our host has prepared a toast for each present – in true Mongolian tradition, with a popular vodka. We toast, yet it somehow seems an insufficient expression of respect. I have nothing with me, save the better part of the generous toast provision… so I do what pilgrims might do. Walking over to the monument, pour out my drink on it. This appears to resonate with our group, as they follow suit.

We now move to a small hill, with the valley spreading out before us. This was the birthplace of Chinggis Khaan in 1162. “Imagine what this would have looked like,” I ask my host and interpreter, “when Chinggis and his army were here.” Their eyes lit up as we filled in possible details of the scene. Yes, it would have been epic!

The next afternoon we are asking Nasaa and his staff to see again… this time it is their credit union’s future. And it is much more than a visioning exercise. It yields concrete strategic goals, objectives and accountabilities. They are a committed and talented group, serving their growing membership well. And the hospitality we experience is both genuine and generous.

Did I mention I am now somebody’s hero? Yes, thanks to being allowed the honour of drawing the winning grand prize entry in a yearlong campaign run in conjunction with the credit union’s fifth anniversary celebrations. Evidently the old herder and I are now friends for life. I hope he enjoys his motorcycle…

It may be challenging, but being an international development coach is an enriching experience. Personally, I think every Canadian credit union CEO should do it. As I leave Binder soum though, I just can’t seem to get Bob Seger’s refrain from Turn the Page out of my head.

…Ken
Itinerant Coach (and occasional pilgrim)

Back on the co-operative road

Ken Doleman is one of CCA's Mongolia "veterans".  The CEO of Manitoba's Swan Valley Credit Union served on the 2010 credit union coaching mission to that country and was a featured blogger in last year's The View From Here: Mongolia blog.  Returning to Mongolia for the 2011 mission, Ken is pleased to share his unique perspectives in The View From Here 2011.

Ken Doleman in Mongolia

 It is with a sense of excitement and anticipation that I greeting you once again from the Co-operative Road, as it winds a meaningful route through Mongolia – like a river, bringing new life and hope wherever it goes.

As co-operators we are all travellers on this road. Yet I think of my fellow coaches as more than travelers…   pilgrims perhaps, being mindful of the unique definition: a traveler that is taken seriously.

The words of greeting by Myaga, Executive Director of the Mongolian Cooperative Training and Information Center (MCTIC) at the first meeting with our Mongolian colleagues and friends sums up our welcome and sets the tone for our coaching mission. ‘Even though we are far apart, our hearts and spirits are very close together…   and that is why we are here.’ 

The afternoon brings a much welcome, heartfelt reunion with the credit union I worked with last year in Ulaanbaatar (UB). We visit several members before the debrief on progress from last year`s coaching visit. And the results are extraordinary, giving me goosebumps…

Now let`s be clear, a coach`s role is to stand on the sidelines…   all credit is due to those committed souls who, amidst challenges and uncertainty press on for the benefit of members and their organization. So, it is with a lump in my throat I tell you that their assets are up 40 per cent; loans have increased 36 per cent; nonperforming loans are down 10 per cent; and, net income is up 106 per cent!

The Mongolian horse fiddle, the morin khuur

And the surprises don`t end there. As if in celebration, an hour later we plumb the depths of Mongolian culture at the National Mongolian Song and Dance Ensemble. To hear modern symphony played so expertly on ancient instruments is a feast of the senses. A personal highlight is the soloist - starting on the horse fiddle and breaking into a moving throat singing finale.

Imagine notes like horses moving along the steppe. As the tempo increases, the mournful, soulful sounds of the horse fiddle take flight – like the famed Mongolian eagle, undulating over the plains, rising on the updrafts. Suddenly, the sound transforms utterly – throat singing with low reverberating sounds and a high whistling - separate, yet matched in harmony. In my mind`s eye the low sounds seem to whip into the canyon lands – richly echoing, while the higher sounds seek out the peaks, chasing the setting sun. I am left breathless!

WOW. Welcome back to the land of the endless blue sky…

Today the coaches head out to the far reaches of the country – aimags (provinces) renowned as the place of high Llamas and presidents; and, even as the center of music and philosophy. So, to my fellow coaches I bid you the traditional pilgrim`s farewell of the Bedouins: Be Safe and Well…   Peace, Love and Courage.

-- Ken, Itinerant Coach (and Pilgrim)